Right now we are about 8 weeks out to install starting from when the 50% deposit is received. 

If you have an HOA or require a permit, the 8 weeks would start after we receive those approvals.

Please keep in mind that most HOAs are 1-4 weeks out and most permits can take 1-3 months to get through drafting and all of the approvals.

There are always variables that can shorten or lengthen the time frame, but these will give an idea so you can plan accordingly.

There are so many HOAs around the valley with different requirements. Some require us to apply on your behalf while others only allow your submission directly. 

If you live in a HOA where we would submit on your behalf, let us know and we can take care of it. If not, we normally supply you with a digital brochure to send to the HOA.

With the permit, if you need one or prefer to have us pull one, that would be included in your contract and we would handle the applications, submission, and inspections as part of our standard process.

Our materials are made of aluminum to better withstand the Arizona sun. Please note that at this time, we don't offer any steel or wood structures.

We regularly install:

• Aluminum patio covers (Solid Roof Style)
• Aluminum pergolas (Lattice Roof Style)
• Aluminum carport covers (Typically the type attached to a manufactured home)
• Cantilevers shade covers (Either Solid or Lattice Style)
• Adjustable Covers (Can be opened to let the sun shine through or closed to provide more shade)

Vender/Material types:

• Elitewood / Ultrawood (our most popular)
• Alumawood
• Solara adjustable roof systems
• 4k aluminum products
• Insulated roof panel systems

Yes! We now offer Financing. Please ask your salesman how to apply. Monthly payments as low as $100 and your first payment isn’t due until after the installation takes place.

Depending on location and availability, we typically have openings ranging from 2-14 days out.

Times can vary depending on complexity of the build, but typically they can span from 20 minutes to about an hour.  Sometimes, they can go longer if there is a high degree of complexity.

Schedule your appointment today

Unfortunately, at this time we all work from home and do not have a showroom or a physical address to stop by. Our mailing address is 15331 W Bell Rd #212 Surprise AZ 85374 and has a receptionist that doesn't work directly for us. However, they can take documents and put them in our mailbox for us if you prefer to drop things off in person.

Absolutely! We often have to remove and replace pavers as part of our build process! 

However, if you haven’t installed them yet, we can come out and install the patio first and the paver companies can install the paver right up to our posts. Or, we can put the posts just outside the pavers if there is room

No problem. Depending on the circumstance, it may be easy and we can mount directly to the slab. 

However, if you wish to pull a permit, the standard engineering restrictions are a little less forgiving and either require more posts, or a saw cut and footers. We are confident in our footers, but we would like to note that we don’t typically do the finish pour unless it is getting covered or coated as we aren’t professional concrete finishers. Therefore, we would typically leave the pour about 4” lower so someone can come in and get a nice pad to finish. 

We also have the option of sending the cover to what we call “site-specific engineering” and that sometimes allows us to mount it to a slab with fewer posts.

We can definitely install it in grass, but we don’t recommend it. The Sprinkler systems spraying on the post that regularly will deteriorate the posts and unfortunately isn’t covered under lifetime warranty for the material.

We install in fake grass every so often, but pulling the grass back to dig a hole and pour concrete causes the grass to not go back perfectly. Therefore, we recommend having the grass installation company come in and seam it back together after our installation. They are artists and we don’t pretend like that job of making it looks good is easy.

This question is a tough one that we get all the time. The way we bid jobs is by the item we need to make sure we are giving the best price possible to each customer. Lineal feet of beams, rafters, posts, amount of concrete yards, etc. Since there are so many variables on each job it is hard to nail down a price. 

The best overall range we can provide ahead of time is anywhere from $23-$50+ per square foot. Most standard lattice and solid covers land in the $35 per square foot range. Cantilever covers on the other hand, while visually amazing, are usually in the $50-$60+ range given the extra beams, steel, concrete, and because posts are upgraded. 

Permits and city requirements can also add to the cost per square foot. 

We aren’t always the cheapest, but we believe in building a product that lasts custom to your needs.

We don’t recommend screwing into the Aluminum cover as a general rule of thumb as the holes are not easily patched. That said – if it is something you plan to leave up for the life of the cover, you are welcome to put screws in. 

Keep in mind, however, that the aluminum by itself does not support a lot of weight on the screw threads. If you are planning to put up a shade screen by another company, be sure to let your salesman know as we would likely be able to add extra support on that side when drafting up the contract.

String Lights or Misters

If you are definitely going the route of installing lights or a mister system, use a sheet metal screw (AKA “SMS”). Unless there is steel inside, which your salesman and installer will be able to tell you if and where that is located, then use a Tek screw or self tapping screw.

Plants and Windchimes 

For plants or wind chimes, a hook over the rafter or beam is usually best practice. Some people say Command strip hooks work well to avoid the screws being placed into the aluminum.

Blinds/Curtains

For Blinds or heavier items, there are two main options, the caps can be removed and a piece of wood or steel can be inserted to give the screw backing. If you let the salesman know what you are planning to install, we can have the installer install the proper backing for your needs while he installs the cover.

Ceiling Fans

Ceiling fans are pretty common on these covers, but must be requested/ added to the contract. Therefore, please let the Salesman know if you are wanting a brace installed. 

Default placement is normally equidistant (ie. 1 fan is centered, 2 fans are split into thirds), but if you want the fan installed in a specific place, please let the salesman know where so he can notate it for the installer. 

A few things to keep in mind when thinking about fans are mounting height of cover and ceiling fan height. You want the fan to be high enough to not hit someone walking under it. Also, the fan installed should be a “wet location” fan if being installed on a lattice structure.

Recessed Lights/Low Voltage

Low voltage can be installed on the beam with a small hole drilled for wires, but recessed lights or lights that require a larger hole should not be installed in the beam as it could weaken the beam’s integrity. 

Recessed lights can be installed on the roof portion, but there may be a leak issue if the top isn’t sealed. So, please let us know if that is your plan so that we can install a cap that sits over the pan it is being installed in.

These covers are all custom built, so we can design and build a large array of shapes and sizes. For clearance, higher usually seems like the obvious choice, but the higher the cover is, the more sun will come in the sides as the sun is rising and setting. But too low, and ceiling fans with light kits can be problematic. 

8’ to the beam is pretty standard for us though for a good balance.

Size of cover is even more open to design for your space and needs. Something to keep in mind as you visualize and plan your cover – the support posts come in from the overall size of the cover typically one foot, but 2’-3’ overhang is also possible if desired. 

For example, if you have a 10x10 freestanding pad you want to cover, the options would be to put the posts on the corner of the pad at 10x10 and the cover would end up being 12x12 for one foot all the way around. If you want the aesthetic of the 10x10 top over your 10x10 pad. Then the posts would be at 8’x8’. 

Another option would be to do a cantilever cover and have 2 posts off the back side of the pad and no posts in the pad area.